Materials of the Upper

• Natural leather (especially full-grain) is usually better than corrected leather or bonded leather.

Construction & Stitching

• Even, tight, straight stitching without loose threads is a good sign.

• How the shoe upper is joined to the sole matters — stitched constructions (e.g. Goodyear welt or Blake stitch) are more durable than just glued.

Sole & Outsole Quality

• The sole-upper junction (where the bottom meets the top) should have no gaps, glue residue, or lifting.

Comfort & Fit

• The shoe should more or less feel comfortable right away. It’s okay if it improves over time, but big discomfort initially is a red flag.

Finish & Details

• Color fastness: dye should not rub off easily or stain socks.

• Extras: quality